Rock Climbing near London

"Where is there to climb near London?" crops up on forums pretty regularly. Whilst the answer "well nowhere" is fairly accurate and it is a place which might drive the seasoned outdoors man/woman crazy there are a range of top quality crags, and not so quality ones a reasonable distance away, a sub 2hr drive with a fair wind, and therefore suitable for a day trip. This post will look at the main candidates.

Southern Sandstone
The closest set of crags to London, spread between East Grinstead and Tunbridge Wells (to the South of London near Gatwick), are a bit of an aquired taste. Despite being diminutive, often uncomfortably busy and featuring rock which often has the texture and solidity of icing sugar they do offer some really good quality climbing if we're prepared to focus on the moves. Having climbed all over the UK and Europe I believe I am as qualified as most average climbers to comment but grade for grade I find the place bloody desperate and a good place to show flaws in technique and strength.

The three most popular crags are probably Harrisons, High Rocks and Bowles. Climbing Club and Jingo Wobbly guides are available.

Given the fragile nature of the rock there is a top roping or soloing only ethic. The rock simply can't take trad pro. The tops are bolted for belays. Climbers should use a length of static rope or long slings to extend the top rope anchor over the edge of the crag. Deep grooves worn in the rock, often repaired with cement indicate how easily the rock is damaged if this is not adhered too.

Swanage
Swanage is a crag is a bit like Pembroke's slightly less refined cousin. Often steep, loose in places and with some fun wobbly stake abseils it is not a place for the beginner in the main. It is positioned on the headland just past Bournemouth and accessible in a couple of hours from London. If heading down on a sunny weekend day it is recommended to leave early as the M3/M27 quickly snarls up with sun seekers day tripping to Bournemouth.

Whilst there are some relatively easier areas, Subliminal and Cattle Troughs for instance, the big draw is the Boulder Ruckle. The Ruckle is steep, blocky, serious and often requires pitching but is one of those crags which offers an involving experience. There is not much to go at for the sub HVS climber but from mid grade up a big range of big routes exists. Top outs are entertaining and a good test of mental calm with a very much push don't pull method to reach the relative security of a stake, heart pounding. Approaches are predominantly by abseil and leaving a rope in situ is the norm.

Swange does offer some good sport climbing but not as good as Portland below. A definitive climbers club guide is available althouh there is also a rockfax which also covers:

Portland
The South of Englands premier sport climbing destination, it typically sneaks just outside a 2hr drive, an extra 20mins on Swanage in the same direction. Portland Bill, famous for cement and stone, is a large peninsular, linked by narrow causeway and Chesil beach to the mainland. Whilst the coastal scenery is rugged and beautiful a mere hundred or two hundred yards from the cliff top lie a range of drab and ugly council estates. Whilst parking must be done sensitively in specified areas and valuables are best not left on show, once you descend to the sea side cliffs you can quickly forget the estates above, barring the odd flying fridge (thankfully rare).

Portland offers a good range of Cliffs on both sides with a big big range of routes in across the grade range. The 6a-7b climber will find a massive amount to go at though. Routes are typically well bolted although the indoor climber may find a few of the first clips exciting on first aquaintance. Rock is limestone, and offers a range of challenges including some fine tufa routes. The lower grade popular routes at Blacknor and Battleship cliffs especially seem to be getting quite polished but there are lots to choose from. Bolts are the glued staple type and typically good. Lower offs are typically twin staples. If top roping it is best practice to use a pair of quickdraws to avoid unnecessarily wearing these.

A total sun trap it is advisable to choose the shady side of the island on really hot days or you are liable to fry. A rockfax guide covers the area including the range of bouldering available.

Wye Valley - Shorn Cliff
Heading west limestone lovers will find some great routes in the Wye Valley near Chepstow. Again possible in a good 2 hr run from London the Wye offers sports and trad climbing, across a range of crags. My personal favourite is Shorn Cliff which is especially delightful for mid grade slab climbers. Unmissable though is the considerably more sustained Tigers Don't Cry*** at HVS 5a.

Shorn is generally compact and solid limestone with a range of features from cracks to pockets but generally slabby to vertical. The great central cave area is HVS slab heaven with a range of fairly amenable routes to go at. Lush wooded crags mean it can be slow to dry in damp conditions but is a lovely placy to climb overlooking the River Wye and Tintern Abbey.

Shorn does seem to attract more than it's fair share of accidents. In 5 or so visits I have made there have been 3 serious accidents on other parts of the crag. This shouldn't put you off, as it is lovely climbing in a beautiful location, merely encourage care. Many accidents occur with falling rock from the top of the cliffs. As they are wooded crags, tree roots are constantly breaking the rock at the top so it is all too easy to knock a rock on someones head. Additionally due to the friendly feel of the cliffs they are also probably underestimated. Whilst protection is typically good it must be placed carefully. This is not Granite or Grit. Small wires are very useful.

Descents from routes are by abseils from trees. To avoid ringbarking the poor things tat and a maillon should be used to abseil from.

Avon Gorge
Avon and Cheddar Gorges, in and close to Bristol respectively are the other two main options within the distance bracket. Having not climbed at Avon I cannot comment in detail but the general consensus seems to be of fairly polished limestone of good height and atmosphere. I've only done one route at Cheddar, the awe inspiring Coronation Street, worth a visit in itself.

Living in London need not limit the keen climber too badly, ok so you're not going to pop to Burbage for the evening, but there is loads to go at within reasonable distance and lots of a fantasic standard. Anybody who claims they can;t climb for living in London needs to make more effort :)